“A restaurant opening during covid-19 pandemic is a testament to the entrepreneurial spirit of America and how we will thrive and prosper regardless of circumstances, like we always have. Although only open limited hours and days to start, this is a really positive thing for Edmonds, with so many businesses closing for good and much uncertainty for all of us, just really positive for our downtown.”

This enthusiastic statement by Michael McMurray, a partner in this new establishment, is great way to introduce to My Edmonds News readers to the mindset of the group.

Whether you’re craving home-style comfort food or healthier options, Leftcraft celebrates the abundant ingredients throughout the region, dedicated to keeping things local, fresh and sustainable.

A full bar with signature cocktails, 20 regionally-focused rotating craft selections will keep thirsts quenched.

Leftcraft officially opens Wednesday, Aug. 26, and will start with abbreviated hours as they transition through challenging COVID times: Wednesday through Sunday 4-8p.m. Their goal is to serve both lunch and dinner daily.

Leftcraft values the health and safety of both their customers and their staff.

A sign on the table directs one to the online menu for ordering purposes. They do have paper menus if someone doesn’t have means– such as a smartphone — to get online, but in the interest of saving trees, and not sharing germs… it’s a good thing, in my humble opinion.

COVID information and policies are listed on the opening page at Leftcraft.com

“Please be respectful and mindful of other patrons and staff while we navigate this process together.”

• Guests will be limited to 90 minutes when dining with us.
• Tables will be available on a first-come first-serve basis, and we can add you to our waitlist if tables are full.
• Feel free to give us a call to inquire about availability or to get on the list.
• Face coverings must be worn by guests when communicating with staff and not dining at their table.
• We cannot accommodate more than 5 people per table. Infants and children count as people.
• Indoor seating will only be available for parties from the same household.

I need to mention the “air purification system” — a UV light system in the restaurant’s HVAC. Abundant outdoor seating is available, but this system, installed last week, gave me a comfortable level with their efforts to ensure the safety and well being of Leftcraft employees and guests, both indoors and outside. It employs germicidal UV lights rays, utilized with the HVAC system. The process has been known to reduce airborne bacteria, mold, odor and virus by 99%.

I hope readers have seen Larry Vogel’s informative article on the “history” of this building. Included in his photos are interior shots that showcase the amazing woodworking. Not only is this breathtakingly beautiful, but it keeps the noise factor inside the restaurant to lows that I truly appreciated when communicating with staff during my visit.

Perusing the menu, I recognized favorite foods, and quickly assembled a “must taste” list.

Saison Steamers were at the top of my list when the waitperson came to take my order. A Saison Steamer combines Taylor Shellfish Farm clams and mussels and is served in a Saison Dupont broth (currently using Bastion Elderflower Saison from Anacortes) with pickled peppers and green onion. A grilled baguette on the side was perfect for sopping up every last bit of the broth in the bottom of the bowl.

Attention to detail in the kitchen is prevalent on every dish placed before me — the Steamers’ pickled yellow peppers and thin sliced green onions still had a fresh crunch.

Next up was Leftcraft Salad, featuring my favorite three S’s of seafood: shrimp, scallops and salmon (wild caught). These were presented on a bed of mixed greens that tasted “freshly harvested.” With citrus chermoula, lemon remoulade and the Parmesan crisp parked at the top side, this was a meal that would leave one sated.

Staff and chef were gracious enough to put small tastes of several entrée items together with cups of all the sauces in one set. I didn’t have to ask for countless to-go boxes and struggle into my bathing suit later, to swim off all the calories.

Two items on the sandwich list caught my eye.

The Main Street Burger is a grass-fed beef burger with a sauce that reminds me of the good old days of childhood and “secret sauce” — the elusive, creamy, slightly tomato taste. You can’t quite put your finger on all the ingredients, but you’ll love every bit.

The Curry Chicken Salad sandwich came loaded with surprises. A pop in the mouth from sweet little gems of sliced green grapes, crunch of celery, and just right-sized bites of well-done chicken, still toothsome and chewy in a good way, made it wonderful. What most compelled me to order? The sauce, a blend of currant, tamarind, and figs glistened with the color of rubies. My tongue tasted tart, spicy and sweet, all at the same time.

I told my server, “I’d like a quart of that, to go please.” She laughed. But I was serious.

Executive Chef Andy Walls stopped by the table to impart details concerning the bowls offered on menu. There are two options — one meat and one vegetarian. The plan is to offer four in total on successive menus.

Each bowl will incorporate locally sourced veggies and sprouted grains. Chef brought me a sample of sprouted brown rice…a delicious nutty taste. Sprouting grains is a trend in healthful eating — read here to learn more.

The food focal point at Leftcraft is the rotisserie. My “sampler” included small breast portion and a leg of the half chicken. The crispy skinned pieces were juicy, and the tender meat pulled away from the bones with ease. I loved it best with the Carolina Gold sauce — tangy pepper and citrus — but it’s equally tasty with teriyaki.

Rotisserie items are served with flatbread and seasonal vegetables. They come with a choice of Carolina gold sauce, Bourbon Stout barbecue, or a teriyaki glaze. Choices on sides include potato salad, macaroni salad or a quinoa salad.

My absolute favorite grilled/roasted meat is pork, specifically ribs. Hey, I grew up in the Midwest, and the Half Rack of St. Louis Style not only met my expectations- it went beyond. Every bit of meat was tender and juicy, lightly crisp on the outside. I am not ashamed to say — only bare bones remained on that plate. And a clean cup that formerly held the Bourbon Stout sauce — this chocolate/coffee/slightly vanilla combination was divine on the ribs.

Since I was taking a good portion of chicken and salad home I was not embarrassed to ask, “What’s for dessert?”

A rotation on a daily basis of at least three items is presented on a tray — mini portions, whew… no guilt factor there.

Lemon meringue tart, sweet lemony filling, crisp shell and christened with meringue – disappeared in less than three bites. The tray also contained a mini cinnamon bun topped off by dollop of cream cheese and powdered sugar. The mini slice of chocolate hazelnut cake, velvet cake iced with chocolate butter cream, also disappeared — not a crumb left behind.

What to drink? The barman offers a variety of cocktails and non-alcoholic drinks, and of course those 20 taps. Enjoy sour beer? Plenty to choose from on rotating tap menu. Love the numbering system — between masks and all, it made ordering simple and accurate.

My server recommended a couple to complement my food choices. Number 17, Varietal Nectarinia Brett Sour-(Sunnyside, WA), and Number 16, Urban Family Conjure Sour (Seattle). Both are fruit forward, not overly sweet, and low in alcohol too.In fact, for those who enjoy non-alcoholic refreshment, there are two taps dedicated to kombucha and ginger beer.

This is a family-centric establishment, so menu choices for the kids echo the sophistication of the grown-ups entrees, and at prices affordable for parents’  budgets.

Chef Andy circled back to discuss food ingredients: How much local product is incorporated into all that they serve, not only in the taps but in sauces and dressings on the menu.

“Recipes will utilize beer styles but not particular beers,” he said. “I will try my best to keep the recipes tasting the same but there will be slight variations throughout the year as we rotate the beers.”

He listed out current ways the kitchen utilizes beer, in a few different recipes: Beer cheese with pretzels, pretzel knots, Saison, as in the broth for steamers, Bourbon Stout BBQ sauce, and of course, there will be more.

All of the condiments and sauces at Leftcraft are house-made.

We spoke about the importance of knowing who grows and prepares one’s food, a nod to Slow Food trends. Chef mentioned his focus is slowing down, getting back to recipes that take some time, to allow flavors to develop.

Breads and pastry items are served with fresh-churned butter, as in “made-on premise.” Local dairy Smith Brothers supplies Leftcraft.

Chef Andy proudly shared that on this day, he personally made the butter that was on my bread, and utilized in the icing of that amazing chocolate hazelnut cake.

The flour in my baked items?  “From Cairnspring Mills in Burlington,” he said. I know this mill from my co-op days. Their mission statement says it all: “We produce fresh, stone-milled flour from wheat varietals we love, grown by farmers we know.”

The above sentence  is the essence of the food and drink that Leftcraft strives to serve to patrons who dine at their tables.

I wish much success to all of our Edmonds eateries, new and long standing.

Happy eating to all, where ever you dine, be safe and wear that face covering!

— By Kathy Passage

A specialty gourmet food broker for over 30 years, Kathy Passage has in-depth knowledge on food and the special qualities of ingredients used in the exquisite products she helped bring to market. Kathy brings this unique perspective from the “other side of the plate” to writing about the food and restaurant scene in Edmonds, Lynnwood and Mountlake Terrace.